2004 Teardrop Sidewall Repair

ladyjaneladyjane Member Posts: 3
edited July 2015 in Conversions & Upgrades
I am new to the blog.  I have had my trailer since 2005 and have not used it much.  That being said the tongue broke
on the I-5 in Washington state.  Had to get it hauled to a friends and he got someone to fix that.  Now I want to tackle securing the sides.  I do not have any problems yet but I want to attach the sides to the frame.  I saw in a post someone fixed that by putting a metal strip.  Does it have to be metal?  Can I use heavy aluminum?  I have taken fenders off and the strip under sides.  I thought I'd water seal the bottom of the wood then run a channel under front and back of trailer.  Do the screws have to go all the way through to the frame and put washer & nuts on the end?  Not sure how to do this.  I need help.  Thanks You Ladyjane 

Comments

  • Michigan_MikeMichigan_Mike Member Posts: 8,776 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I believe one of our members Deceiver did this repair?  Find his profile and you can look back on his postings. 

    If if it were me I'd stick with steel for the repair as you can create a reaction using the aluminum and steel together.  There is a chemical reaction that can take place over time and although that sounds feasible,  I personally wouldn't Repair it using aluminum.  Bolts through the frame would probably be the way to go.  

    I'll see if I can find some if the members who have done the repair and see if they will jump in and offer up some solid tips on what they did to repair threir trailers.
  • Michigan_MikeMichigan_Mike Member Posts: 8,776 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2015
    This is some of the information I was looking for below and had a few minutes this morning to find.  This should give you some ideas and help you out.  It looks like Dan used stainless screws and if you look at the second discussion Rich replaced the rotted wood, filled the gap and used diamond plate in his repair process. Jay posted up some tips for a repair he made to his trailer and if you read the threads below it should help and provides enough information that should allow you to repair your trailer.....  Please document and share your repair project if you have time because these efforts will benefit others in the future and is the basis for the forum areas....  Thanks!  

    http://www.golittleguy.com/forum#/discussion/1159/ahhh-my-6-wide-if-falling-off-the-frame/p1

    http://www.golittleguy.com/forum#/discussion/1151/sidewall-rot-repair-one-of-four-sections-complete

    http://www.golittleguy.com/forum#/discussion/686/nrp-plastic-panel

    http://www.golittleguy.com/forum#/discussion/649/maintain-your-lg

    http://www.golittleguy.com/forum#/discussion/3710/repaired-my-corroding-r-t-this-week
  • ladyjaneladyjane Member Posts: 3
    Thanks again for all the info.  I'm gathering info so I can make a good decision.  Appreciate all the input.  LadyJane
  • SusieQSusieQ Member Posts: 1,847
    I did Deceiver's repair on mine on one side but not the other.  Then I hit a bump and the back end dropped.  The screws actually tear through the plywood.  I was on my way to a Tearstock Rally and I had it repaired at the factory.  They did a pretty quick job, removed my repair, added angle aluminum to the bottom edge and screwed it in.  So far, it has held.  If the sidewalls get wet and wick up water because they are not sealed where they hang past he frame/floor, the screws will pull out also.  Once the walls get wet and start swelling and rotting... there's not much you can do but rebuild it.  I was lucky that mine did not have water damage.

    Here is a link that has my repair to one side.  I don't know where the pics of my factory repair are, but they are here somewhere.
    http://www.golittleguy.com/forum#/discussion/599/i-can-see-daylight/p1


  • TxflyboyTxflyboy Member Posts: 35
    TxflyboyTxflyboy Posts: 32Member

    Well it's been a while in coming but I thought I'd show my efforts at repairing, and stopping any future, damage.   I discovered my wall panel slipping on the passenger side.  I first noticed it when I saw the diamond plate strip along the back of the trailer had bent.  My wall had not separated from the back but had begun to drop along the back behind the wheel.  I guess I was fortunate enough to catch it in the beginning and was able to jack it back into position without any damage to the panel or other parts of the trailer. 

    From there I began my repairs.  First I took some aluminum corner and braced the insides.  I used 3" aluminum and 3/4" screws.  Then I fabricated my steel exterior fix.  I took a 2-1/2 steel angle and welded a flat bar inside of that so I had a sharp inside 90.  This allowed me to weld on the inside and outside where I attached the flat bar to the angle.  Then I welded the 90 to the trailer frame with the flat stock part being the bottom.  I used bottle jacks and bar clamps to pull the angle tight to the trailer walls and tight up against the frame.  Then I welded it on a little at a time so as not to overheat anything or start a fire.  Once that was done I applied a polyurethane caulk every where.  It's where metal meets metal, over the welds, and where the metal meets the sides.  I let that set up a week.  Then I applied a coat of "Flex-seal" over all those areas on the bottom side of the trailer.  I had the wheels off at that time and I flex sealed the exposed plywood edge that is in the wheel wells and the whole wheel well itself.  After that dried I applied 3 coats of paint over the bottom of the trailer frame rails and then 3 coats of white on the vertical leg of the angle where it meets then walls.

    While I was at it I when ahead and finally welded my spare winch to the bottom the cargo basket.  I know I talked about it in another thread about 2 years ago.  The strap is just my second line of defence. 


  • GinBuckGinBuck Member Posts: 1

    Bumping this very informative thread. We too are the owners of a 2006 6-wide and the box fell off the frame exactly as TxFlyBoy and others described. We had to make emergency repairs in a Harbor Freight parking lot on a Sunday in Iowa to get home.  

     

    We had a welder place angle iron much like TxFlyBoy and it works and looks great. I rebuilt the best I could the curved part of the back, but there was not much to tie the new plywood too and I was mostly winging it. To the point, there now is a gap between the side plastic panel and the curved back panel—1/8 to ¼  inch we need to water proof. 

     

    What is recommended to slather in there? I am only looking for a 50 footer repair—doesn't have to look pretty up close.  If I have to re-goop it once in a while, so be it.  Truth be told, the damage already done has make the camper worthless, but not to us. We think it has many miles of adventure left! 

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